First and foremost, Happy Graduation to my little sis! I can’t believe you’re out of high school now…wow. Think of all the fun things we can do now without having to have you play hooky all the time? Sorry I couldn’t be there for the big day, but I do believe I strapped a king size mattress and box spring to the top of my beloved Saab and drove it from Capitol Hill to Everett on Hwy 99 in the rain no less as an early graduation present. We’ll go to a concert or something cool when I get back as an after-graduation present. Congratulations!!
Secondly, the women’s committee president’s daughter had a baby and they named it Elisa! It’s not an uncommon occurrence for Peace Corps here. It’s the ol’ namesake routine. Some volunteers find it irritating because it’s a ploy to get you to buy stuff for the baby. You know, like Pampers and clothes and things. I’ve never bought baby clothes for anyone, so it was fun to buy a tiny little dress for little Elisa. Another Peace Corps had two brothers named after him. The first baby took his first name and the second baby took his last name. Unfortunately, the volunteers name is Igor Popstefanija.
Finally, school has started up again and it’s the busiest term out of the three. All the students are studying for fall exams. I’ve started a phonics program in the morning before school to help students who are in year 7 and 8 who are still having trouble reading. Alli, Emilie and I get together every weekend and have a sleepover, usually in Emilie’s village because it’s so close to town. The new library book donations from Darien Book Aid have arrived and I’m excited to add them to our meager stack at Vaipu’a Primary. Water Charity in California funded a small grant to plant 80 fruit trees inside our school grounds for healthier lunches and I’m excited to have a tree-planting day with the kids. My cousin Jami and I have started penpal-ing our students back and fourth as a cultural exchange activity and the kids are jazzed about hearing from their friends in the U.S.
Kittten head is getting big and as soon as I get her fixed (not easy to do here) I’ll let her out to play with the pigs and chase the chickens. Until then, the position is being filled by yours truly
Friday, June 25, 2010
Fuafiva's Wedding
I recall someone, a trainer or older volunteer, mentioning during training last fall that if given the chance we should jump on any opportunity to be a part of a Samoan village wedding. Two weeks ago, I got that chance.
Now the way it works is you typically have a bride and groom from different villages. You don’t want to marry within your village because chances are, you’re related. If the bride is a girl from the village (an “aualuma”) where the wedding is taking place and the groom is from somewhere else, you get to see the best show. That’s because all of the unmarried village girls go nuts celebrating the marriage of a fellow “aualuma”. After the ceremony in the church, everyone spilled out of the double doors and followed the sounds of loud ‘whoop’s and ‘chu-hoo’s, not to mention the banging of thick sticks on rusty sheet metal and pots. Young women scattered the lawn of the fale adjacent the Methodist Church and created as much racket as possible, hooting and hollering and waving branches of teuila flowers around crazily as the wedding procession approached the fale. The yard and road came alive with ladies rusting bushes, releasing balloons and dancing wildly. Once the band (oh yes, there was a brass band brought over from Apia to follow the bride and groom around the village) had assembled outside, the dancing commenced. The aualuma lifted their skirts above their knees and showed their malu tattoos as they darted and scooped around the groom in a traditional gesture. They picked up Fuafiva and carried her around the fale, while others trailed behind singing and billowing her veil and train. Others passed out cups of ice cream and cake. This lasted a few songs until the procession moved onto the next house. Every house had a different treat for the guests and different people to dance and lift and carry and sing. After several houses were visited, there was a feast at Fuafiva’s parents house. Half a dozen roasted pigs and a butchered cow lay covered in coconut fronds outside, while 28 wedding cakes (one for every year of the bride’s age) stood stacked and decorated in the center of the tables. The dancing, exchanging of presents and eating lasted until the evening and I must have been told a hundred times, yelled at really over the loud music, that I should have my wedding in Samoa. Heck, why not? Gotta find a husband first though.
Now the way it works is you typically have a bride and groom from different villages. You don’t want to marry within your village because chances are, you’re related. If the bride is a girl from the village (an “aualuma”) where the wedding is taking place and the groom is from somewhere else, you get to see the best show. That’s because all of the unmarried village girls go nuts celebrating the marriage of a fellow “aualuma”. After the ceremony in the church, everyone spilled out of the double doors and followed the sounds of loud ‘whoop’s and ‘chu-hoo’s, not to mention the banging of thick sticks on rusty sheet metal and pots. Young women scattered the lawn of the fale adjacent the Methodist Church and created as much racket as possible, hooting and hollering and waving branches of teuila flowers around crazily as the wedding procession approached the fale. The yard and road came alive with ladies rusting bushes, releasing balloons and dancing wildly. Once the band (oh yes, there was a brass band brought over from Apia to follow the bride and groom around the village) had assembled outside, the dancing commenced. The aualuma lifted their skirts above their knees and showed their malu tattoos as they darted and scooped around the groom in a traditional gesture. They picked up Fuafiva and carried her around the fale, while others trailed behind singing and billowing her veil and train. Others passed out cups of ice cream and cake. This lasted a few songs until the procession moved onto the next house. Every house had a different treat for the guests and different people to dance and lift and carry and sing. After several houses were visited, there was a feast at Fuafiva’s parents house. Half a dozen roasted pigs and a butchered cow lay covered in coconut fronds outside, while 28 wedding cakes (one for every year of the bride’s age) stood stacked and decorated in the center of the tables. The dancing, exchanging of presents and eating lasted until the evening and I must have been told a hundred times, yelled at really over the loud music, that I should have my wedding in Samoa. Heck, why not? Gotta find a husband first though.
Early Service Training, River Fales and a Taupou Dance!
“English Day” marked the end of Term One and the beginning of Group 82’s first in country vacation time! Three weeks without school obligations! Too bad two of the three weeks we were scheduled to be in EST (Early Service Training) in Apia. That’s right, after all the stress of the first term of teaching we had to fill that familiar old Pacifika Inn meeting room and listen to hours of droning on about the health program that our group is embarking on come September.
You’ll hear all about that in the September newsletter, so I won’t bore you with it now, instead I’ll tell you about the magic and tranquility that is “the river fales”. A small group of 11 Savaii and Upolu volunteers got together and stayed at these charming fales for a weekend.
The stay included a 3 hour waterfall hike through the jungle in and along the river. During this tour, we saw eight gorgeous waterfalls, and not only saw them…we rock climbed over them, jumped off them, crossed over them holding hands and swam in the pools beneath them. Our Samoan guide was there every step showing us where to put our feet and grab hold as we slowly dragged our limbs up the craggy rocks alongside the rushing falls. Our poor Emilie, who fell backwards and smacked her gourd, sustained the only head injury during the trip. She was a trooper and made it through the rest of the hike though.
The Avanoa Tutusa (a non-profit Peace Corps run organization who organize “Equal Opportunity” events) held a fund-raiser dance during our EST. The taupou (a traditional maiden who dances covered in coconut oil, wrapped in a fine mat, with a bedazzled and mirrored headdress) dance was one of the performances in the program The fun of it was trying to get a hold of the taupou fine mat and headdress, which we discovered at the last moment that Peace Corps had misplaced.
We all went different directions making phone calls to and visiting establishments and people that might have this outfit and who might let us borrow it for a night, with no luck. I decided to hit the taxi stand across the street and ask if they knew someone. First, they made me dance the taupou dance on the taxi lot while they clapped and ‘chu-hoo’ed. Then one guy ushered me to his cab and took me to his parent’s home down the road. After a brief explanation while he grabbed a handful of chips from the kitchen, his elderly mother shuffled near me. She bent over a wooden chest, opened it, and gently lifted out their family headdress and fine mat and handed it over, smiling wide and wrinkled, just an hour before the event.
You’ll hear all about that in the September newsletter, so I won’t bore you with it now, instead I’ll tell you about the magic and tranquility that is “the river fales”. A small group of 11 Savaii and Upolu volunteers got together and stayed at these charming fales for a weekend.
The stay included a 3 hour waterfall hike through the jungle in and along the river. During this tour, we saw eight gorgeous waterfalls, and not only saw them…we rock climbed over them, jumped off them, crossed over them holding hands and swam in the pools beneath them. Our Samoan guide was there every step showing us where to put our feet and grab hold as we slowly dragged our limbs up the craggy rocks alongside the rushing falls. Our poor Emilie, who fell backwards and smacked her gourd, sustained the only head injury during the trip. She was a trooper and made it through the rest of the hike though.
The Avanoa Tutusa (a non-profit Peace Corps run organization who organize “Equal Opportunity” events) held a fund-raiser dance during our EST. The taupou (a traditional maiden who dances covered in coconut oil, wrapped in a fine mat, with a bedazzled and mirrored headdress) dance was one of the performances in the program The fun of it was trying to get a hold of the taupou fine mat and headdress, which we discovered at the last moment that Peace Corps had misplaced.
We all went different directions making phone calls to and visiting establishments and people that might have this outfit and who might let us borrow it for a night, with no luck. I decided to hit the taxi stand across the street and ask if they knew someone. First, they made me dance the taupou dance on the taxi lot while they clapped and ‘chu-hoo’ed. Then one guy ushered me to his cab and took me to his parent’s home down the road. After a brief explanation while he grabbed a handful of chips from the kitchen, his elderly mother shuffled near me. She bent over a wooden chest, opened it, and gently lifted out their family headdress and fine mat and handed it over, smiling wide and wrinkled, just an hour before the event.
English Day at Vaipu'a Primary
This day was a huge success! The principal approached me in March about having an “English Day” at Vaipu’a Primary. The HELLO! school in Japan where I was working held an annual event every February where students could showcase their skills, so I immediately started envisioning a similar production to what we had done then.
First was a play, simply written and with both group characters and individuals so all the students could take part. Year 1 & 2 were cast as monkeys, Year 3 were kookaburra birds, Year 4 played flamingos, hippos and crocodiles, Year 5 were bears, tigers and snakes, Year 6 were wolves and Year 7 & 8 played either a main character (Zebra, Lion, Rhino) or were story narrators. We took simple English songs like “She’ll Be Coming Round the Mountain” and changed the lyrics to fit the story. So when our heroes were being chased down a mountain by wolves, the school sang “They’ll be running down the mountain when they come…” and so on. Year 8 students were also given short speeches to present, like welcoming the parents, leading the prayer in English and closing the program.
The masks we made for 100-something students were a huge hit with the parents and the kids.
The older students decorated the hall with coconut leaves wrapped around the poles and leaf garlands strung everywhere. Parents told me later that it was the first time they had heard their children speak English or do a play.
There was just the one little bump during the program when a mother in the audience fainted…but after she was carried away and resuscitated, the show went on!
First was a play, simply written and with both group characters and individuals so all the students could take part. Year 1 & 2 were cast as monkeys, Year 3 were kookaburra birds, Year 4 played flamingos, hippos and crocodiles, Year 5 were bears, tigers and snakes, Year 6 were wolves and Year 7 & 8 played either a main character (Zebra, Lion, Rhino) or were story narrators. We took simple English songs like “She’ll Be Coming Round the Mountain” and changed the lyrics to fit the story. So when our heroes were being chased down a mountain by wolves, the school sang “They’ll be running down the mountain when they come…” and so on. Year 8 students were also given short speeches to present, like welcoming the parents, leading the prayer in English and closing the program.
The masks we made for 100-something students were a huge hit with the parents and the kids.
The older students decorated the hall with coconut leaves wrapped around the poles and leaf garlands strung everywhere. Parents told me later that it was the first time they had heard their children speak English or do a play.
There was just the one little bump during the program when a mother in the audience fainted…but after she was carried away and resuscitated, the show went on!
Aso Sa Tina: Mother's Sunday
The mother’s and grandmother’s of Vaipu’a spent weeks rehearsing for the choreographed dances they performed on Mother’s Sunday. Over 50 women, ages 25 to 70, lined the church in matching white puletasis, their best hair clips and bright pink lip stick to dance for the congregation to the beat of a techno “Mama Mia”. After the dances, the women dressed in colorful robes and sequined headpieces to depict a story from 1 Kings 21. A story where Jezebel, Queen of Israel at the time, comforts her husband King Ahab about not being able to procure a sweet vineyard from a dude name Naboth and plots to have Naboth stoned because of it. Jezebel says “Why are you so sullen? Why won’t you eat? and King Ahab says “Because I said to Naboth the Jezreelite, ‘Sell my your vineyard…but he said ‘I will not give you my vineyard’”. Jezebel chastises him “Is this how you act as king over Israel? Get up and eat! Cheer up. I’ll get you the vineyard of Naboth the Jezreelite!” After the thrilling reenactment of the stoning of Naboth (played by one of my favorite neighbor ladies, who cured my ear infection with a banana leaf massage), the mothers lined the church again and all their children and grandchildren (Samoan’s on average have 7 children…so you can do the math) came to them to kiss their cheeks and adorn them with lolly necklaces. The older and more respected the women, the more lollies they got. So the oldest lady there and the pastor’s wife were up to their chins in stacked candy necklaces. I even got some.
Friday, May 28, 2010
Eagles Can Carry Cows?
During the first week of school the Principal said “Maybe you should just observe me today and take notes”
“Sure, that’s great.” I replied. The 10-year-old students in year seven sat cross-legged on the floor listening intently. “The eagle is the strongest of the forest animals” the teacher boomed in a halted island accent. “So strong,” he continued, “it can lift the cow.”
........
When I retold this story, these are some of the replies I got.
A.J. – “A 5 lb bird could not carry a 1 ton cow. To maintain air speed velocity, the eagle must beat it’s wings 34 times per second, am I right?” (making a parody of Monty Python’s Holy Grail)
Phil – “Maybe he was talking about the eagles from Lord of the Rings”
Tsunami Evacuation in Vaipua!
Oh! I had almost forgot about the tsunami evacuation fiasco. So, I was on my way to the road to catch the red-eye bus to Salelologa which goes by my village around 3am and I get a call, at 2:45am, from our fearless leader Dale Withington, the country director. He’s telling me that there has been an large earthquake in Chile and that the whole South Pacific could be expecting a tsunami. “Stop all travel, pack up your important belongings including water and food and your EAP (Emergency Action Plan) and seek higher ground immediately. The tsunami is expected to hit at 9am.”
So Talava, who was with me walking to the main road, and I turned back to the house and I told her what Dale had said. She turned on the radio when we got home and sure enough it was a continuous warning that tsunamis were expected in Samoa at 9am and to seek higher ground. She roused the children around 4am and started to pack things into large plastic bags.
I walked down to Tuaia’s (the school vice principal) and knocked on her door. One thing I’ve noticed about Samoans is that they never seem to sleep. If you even whisper someone’s name, they answer as if they were wide-awake all the time. It’s crazy. Right after I had explained the situation, her phone rang. It was her sister calling from another village, saying they were evacuating up the mountain. The radio was switched on and everyone started to rouse sleepily from under their mosquito nets. Large bushes of black hair were thrown hastily into buns and Tuaia’s husband lit up a cigarette.
“We must go to tell the faifeau and they must hit the bell” she said as we walked across the yard in the dark towards the Methodist pastors church. It must have been 4:30 but the house lights were on inside and Asi sat listening to the radio, scratching his white hair with a bored expression on the porch. He already had heard and he was waiting until 5am to ring the bell. Apparently, Digicel (One of Samoa's cell phone companies) had texted all the faifeaus about the tsunami. This was extremely interesting and I still haven’t quite figured it out. The natural disaster warning system is a mass text to the faifeaus of the village and the government does this through the cell phone company? Wow.
We hopped over to Tupolo, the EFKS pastors, across the street and found him and his wife also awake and listening to the news surrounded by snoring children. Tupolo glanced at his phone “Go out and ring the bell, Elisa. Three long, two short. Ua iloa? (Got it?)”. I went out to the bell in the yard, a long rusty pipe suspended on a fetter from a wooden frame, and struck it five times as instructed. Shortly after, Asi rung his bell. It created flame of Gondor chain effect and I could hear bells chiming in nearby villages as the tsunami warning sped across the island.
The rest of the early morning was spent tossing random things into a duffel to take with me up the mountain. I filled up all my water bottles, brought my packet of water sanitation tablets, all the first aid supplies, good shoes, warm clothes, ie lava lavas (wrap around fabric), my laptop, camera, and some family photos I had on my wall, tucked Lulu into a cardboard box with some food and met the rest of the family out on the lawn. The house had been secured, all the windows shut, the dvd player wrapped in plastic bags and put away in a drawer and all the food in the house had been taken with us. We lugged everything on our backs for a half an hour’s walk up a steep hill to the last fale in the village before the plantations. There were already four or five families there, spread out and talking softly. Our bags were stowed away in a room with piles of others and we were all given cups of hot cocoa to sip. Our numbers steadily grew and by the time the sun had risen, there were at least 15 families crowded into four fales, the children chasing each other outside.
Easter Festivities
Any given Sunday you will see the dirt roads full of people dressed in white on their way to church, and in this way Easter is just the same. Everyone put on their Sunday best, including wide brimmed hat, and filled the churches. There are two in my village, unlike some that have six or seven, and so it’s easy for me to keep a good relationship with both of the faifeaus (pastors). It’s important to do this when living in the village because church is more of a social event than anything else. Show up every week (10 pts), donate plenty of money (10 pts), sing in the choir (10 pts), participate in church functions like cleaning the church, painting the church, washing the asphalt outside the church, etc (10 pts). You can see how easily not being involved in the church can hurt your social standing! I alternate between churches. Most volunteers do this so they don't get involved in any village organization more than another. There are raging rivalries between churches in Samoa because they run like businesses. The more members the more money and the more money the nicer the church.
This last Sunday, a news crew came to our EFKS Church (pronounced Eh, Fa, Ka, Sa) to film the service and put it on TV. They go around to all the villages in Samoa and do this so people can see how nice the churches are in different villages, how well the people since and dress, etc. Like I said, it's a big competition. The flowers were done beautifully, everyone was in their absolute best white dress and members from the Methodist church, this was astounding, even joined the service to fill out the pews, boost the choir and probably to just get on TV.
Every Easter, the Methodist pastor preaches at a different church and so we had the Methodist pastor from Asau visiting. After church every week we have to’ana’i (a feast), but Easter went above and beyond (pictured above).Visitors, especially high standing ones like pastors, provide the village with an opportunity to demonstrate superior wealth and hospitality. The lavishness of the food and extravagance of the gifts given are purely demonstrations to earn the village a good reputation. It’s a competition. We must have given three ie togas (fine mats, pictured below), which take up to a year to make and were used as currency in the old days and over 5,000 tala in canned food, cooked pigs, soap, coffee, cash, sugar and other valuables. The pastor loaded up a truck and hauled it all away after giving appropriate speeches. When our village pastor came back from his visit in Sagone, we could hardly be disappointed with his bounty. It was much the same type of gifts and they were distributed to the all the matais in the village. I was even given a Costco sized box of ramen, a five pound can of salted beef and 50 tala. What I really wanted though was one of the apples. I confided this to Talava and minutes later my hands were full of round red apples!
Happy Easter!
Passover at Lili's
Lili threw a Passover party at her house for all who wanted to come. Rachel had met some Jewish students who were studying for a semester at University of South Pacific in Apia and invited them to come. We had fun making as many Passover dishes as we could with what limited ingredients were at Frankie’s (the Savaii grocery store). Most of us had little or no experience conducting the Passover rituals, but we had a guidebook to help us! We made the sader plate, complete with horseradish. And as we read through the book, we dipped our fingers in the wine for each plague that passed over Egypt, asked the four questions to Hallie, who was the youngest, and when we had leaned left and right several times, we ate. To make the celebrations complete, we watched The Big Lebowski.
Trip to Apolima-Tai
We took a little trip to Apolima-Tai, a small island between Upolu and Savaii, a few weeks ago and it was the first time a lot of us from both islands had gotten together since New Years. It was nice to see everyone and hear news from their villages. Casey organized the trip. We met in Apolima-Uta, Casey’s village, and hired a small skiff to take us to the island. Just in case you are confused about the two Apolimas, “tai” means seaward, seaside or just near the sea and “uta” means inland.
Once we had loaded up the skiff, we were on our way propelling across the waves with the owner of the small boat manning the motor. His young son was hard at work the entire one hour trip, scooping out the water, that was rushing into the boat through the cracks and holes, with what looked like a red gas can with the top half cut off. If the leaking boat wasn’t enough to make us nervous, when we reached the entrance to the island, the boat’s engine stopped and we were all told to get inside the boat. Some of us had climbed on top of the roof and were basking in the sun during the trip. “This is the hardest part” said our captain. “See those two rocks?” and he pointed to two spans of rocks and a narrow path between them where water was crashing through. “We are going through that narrow space and I need you all inside in case we hit a rock and the boat lurches”. We looked at each other uneasily as we clambered back inside. It was clear that the man was waiting for the waves to settle before attempting the pass. Suddenly, the engine roared to life and we were speeding towards the pass. Water splashed up on both sides of the boat and soaked us as we cheered. We were through!
We went for a hike through the jungle to a lighthouse and enjoyed the breathtaking view of the island below, we were served a fish, taro and coconut lunch by the captain’s family and on the way back to Apolima-Uta the boat dropped anchor to let us swim in the warm turquoise ocean for a little while.
i.
Drink it Down, Down, Down
Kava, called Ava in Samoa, is a Polynesian shrub that has clusters of small flowers and belongs to the pepper family from the roots of which, a narcotic drink can be made. Ava, in powder form, used to be exported from Samoa and was a big money generator but has since been made illegal. We made some a little while back to sell at the market for eight tala per small bag.
Ava ceremonies are an integral part of Samoan culture and drinking Ava, as unappetizing as it is, is something that boys look forward to doing as adults. Traditionally, ava is reserved for men only, unless a woman is being served during a ceremony as a guest or if she is one of the rare females with a matai (chief) title. The taupo (like a virgin princess), traditionally prepares the ava during the ceremony. Don’t feel too bad for girls not getting to drink the stuff because ava powder, mixed with water tastes like dirty water. It numbs the lips and tongue and eventually will make a person quite relaxed and soporific if you drink enough. You can find men sitting around a large carved wooden bowl and scooping the murky liquid with coconut shells in the market, smoking rolled Samoan tobacco and enjoying some in the evening after a hard days work in the plantation or being formally served it during a matai council meeting.
During an ava ceremony honored guests are announced by the orator in loud booming voices before being presented with a coconut shell full of the drink by the tau tu ava. The tau tu ava is responsible for properly delivering the ava to each guest, as they are named, without spilling a drop. The tau tu ava faces the guest from across the fale and holds the cup above his head respectfully. He then jogs to the receiver, places his left hand behind his back while bending at the waist and scooping the cup of ava in an upside down arc to the receiver with his right hand. The cup is taken by the guest, a drop or two is spilled on the ground as “Lau ava lea le atua, soifua” (“This is Ava for the God, Good Health”) is recited. The contents are then drunk and the cup can be either handed or thrown back to the tau tu ava.
How To Make Ava
1. Dig up kava roots and wash them in water until all dirt is removed.
2. Dry cleaned ava roots in the sun.
3. Pound ava roots into ava powder.
4. Sift ava powder into fine ava powder.
5. Serve in various strengths
Rockin Host Family
I am so grateful for my incredible host family. We get along so well! We’re always laughing and joking around. The kids all love musicals and we watch High School Musical 3 and Sweeney Todd non-stop. They can’t get enough of Hayao Miyazaki’s anime movies, which are also my favorite. We even named the new puppy “Ponyo” after a movie character they like.
My host mom Talava is incredibly thoughtful and generous. She does my laundry and won’t hear it if I insist on doing it myself. She makes two bowls of soup, one with regular chicken with fat and bones and one for me, with fat and bones cut out. She pours me a cup of Cocoa Samoa first before she loads it with sugar because she knows I like it o’ona (bitter, like coffee). Mei and Sevai go into my room and feed my cat and tidy up when I go to town. Sevai loves to sit behind me and brush my hair. My brothers and I wrestle, tickle each other and pillow fight in the living room. Telefoni is usually gone doing some contract construction job, but when he’s home on the weekends he plays guitar (which reminds me how much I miss Dad) and sings beautiful harmonies with Talava while the children siva Samoa (do Samoan dances). Life is good.
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Sorry for the wait!
Wow, it's been quite a while. Last post...February 6th! Sorry everyone. I've been neglecting blogger and have sent out newsletters to friends and family for the past four months, but I'm in Apia for the week and have a fast internet connection, well comparatively fast anyway. So I'll update you on the latest and greatest.
Saturday, February 6, 2010
A Few Personal Notes
In case you haven’t heard enough, let’s talk just briefly about what’s going on in my life outside of PC stuff.
LUCIA’S.
Lucia’s is the most frequented place for PC on Savaii. It’s our meet up spot in Salelologa, the wharf town where you can buy a few things at the store, visit the tiny PC Savaii office (which is only a computer, some books and a couple benches), check your mail, hit the ATM and then go to Lucia’s Lagoon Resorts. It’s right on the water with a high half covered deck that extends out into the water and it’s perfect for running and jumping off of on a hot day…that means any day. It’s always blazing hot here, you don’t even leave your house between 11 and 1pm, everyone naps. Farmers wake up before 5 to get their work done and house wives do the cooking, laundry, weaving the mats (pictured below with the kitty) and cleaning the house all before 11 so they can nap when the suns high. Anyway, any given Saturday, look for us at Lucia’s enjoying Samoa and thanking God we're on Savaii.
I’m doing very well here. I’m adjusting to the stresses (not knowing what people are saying, not agreeing with cultural norms, stopping myself from causing a riot against animal abuse, the creepy guys asking me if I want a Samoan boyfriend every day, the creepy crawlies, everyone staring at me and just really missing family and friends and the comforts of home) and finding ways to deal. I read a lot, I sleep a lot, I try to keep in touch with people via post or email, I exercise, travel and joke around with my host family. We’ve been watching all of Hiyao Miyazaki’s movies together. They love Ponyo! I’ve been obsessed lately with figuring out what I want to do after PC and after a month of researching different options (Universities with scholarships for PC volunteers and programs that interest me) I’ve decided to shoot for the University of Michigan’s Natural Resource & Environment and Anthropology dual degree program, fully funded if accepted. So I’m studying for the GRE now. I want to go back to Japan, travel in Europe and also just live at home with my family, but right now, I’m here, so I have to focus on what’s in front of me. Saturdays at Lucia’s keep me sane, the projects that I have started keep me hopeful and the people of Samoa keep me motivated.
I know you’ve been wondering who this adorable little girl is in the pink. She doesn’t have a name yet. But she was rescued by a few of us along with her siblings who were abandoned near a sawmill in Asau, Savaii. The other volunteers are adopting her siblings and she’s happily running around my room and keeping things entertaining. If you can think of a name that suits her little face, I’m taking suggestions!
LUCIA’S.
Lucia’s is the most frequented place for PC on Savaii. It’s our meet up spot in Salelologa, the wharf town where you can buy a few things at the store, visit the tiny PC Savaii office (which is only a computer, some books and a couple benches), check your mail, hit the ATM and then go to Lucia’s Lagoon Resorts. It’s right on the water with a high half covered deck that extends out into the water and it’s perfect for running and jumping off of on a hot day…that means any day. It’s always blazing hot here, you don’t even leave your house between 11 and 1pm, everyone naps. Farmers wake up before 5 to get their work done and house wives do the cooking, laundry, weaving the mats (pictured below with the kitty) and cleaning the house all before 11 so they can nap when the suns high. Anyway, any given Saturday, look for us at Lucia’s enjoying Samoa and thanking God we're on Savaii.
I’m doing very well here. I’m adjusting to the stresses (not knowing what people are saying, not agreeing with cultural norms, stopping myself from causing a riot against animal abuse, the creepy guys asking me if I want a Samoan boyfriend every day, the creepy crawlies, everyone staring at me and just really missing family and friends and the comforts of home) and finding ways to deal. I read a lot, I sleep a lot, I try to keep in touch with people via post or email, I exercise, travel and joke around with my host family. We’ve been watching all of Hiyao Miyazaki’s movies together. They love Ponyo! I’ve been obsessed lately with figuring out what I want to do after PC and after a month of researching different options (Universities with scholarships for PC volunteers and programs that interest me) I’ve decided to shoot for the University of Michigan’s Natural Resource & Environment and Anthropology dual degree program, fully funded if accepted. So I’m studying for the GRE now. I want to go back to Japan, travel in Europe and also just live at home with my family, but right now, I’m here, so I have to focus on what’s in front of me. Saturdays at Lucia’s keep me sane, the projects that I have started keep me hopeful and the people of Samoa keep me motivated.
I know you’ve been wondering who this adorable little girl is in the pink. She doesn’t have a name yet. But she was rescued by a few of us along with her siblings who were abandoned near a sawmill in Asau, Savaii. The other volunteers are adopting her siblings and she’s happily running around my room and keeping things entertaining. If you can think of a name that suits her little face, I’m taking suggestions!
Vaipua & Fogasavaii Primary School: In Session!
It’s now February 4, 2010 and the school year started last Monday. I feel much better being busy planning lessons and squeezing out creative juices to make learning materials with the infinitely low resources available. Basically, I have paper. The first few days of school in Samoa are dedicated to cleaning the school grounds and the rooms, assemblies to introduce new students, check for messy uniforms or sub-standard haircuts. I’ve seen a whole new side of Tuaia while in her role as school master, who was once my friendly go-to lady with great English who introduced me around and helped me out was now the stern disciplinarian, pacing back and forth slowly and deliberately in front of the petrified students. Better hope your sideburns aren’t too long, cause if they are, she’ll find them. She’ll find them and pull you up on your toes by them before letting you go and soundly smacking you in the face. Kids don’t cry when they get smacked here, they just rub their faces and sit back down. New kids stood up in front of the school and introduced themselves
“O lou igoa o Sina. O lou tina o Peta. O lou tama o Aso. O te nofo ii Fogasavaii” (My name is Sina, My mom is Peta, My dad is Aso, I live in Fogasavaii.). I was glad for these little introductions because I could understand every word, a rare sensation. As far as the corporal punishment goes, it’s just normal here, just like animal abuse (not feeding animals unless they are intended to become food, throwing rocks at or kicking dogs and cats, throwing unwanted kittens and puppies (especially if they are female) into the ocean . Nobody flinches, nobody protests. It’s just the way it is here. I witnessed it in Manunu when one of my younger host brothers got all dirty before church, throwing around cow pies. He got a beating, and it was loud. Alli’s bike was “borrowed” by some kids in the village off her front porch. She lives in a house with the faifeau (pastor) again, she just gets bad luck with housing and nothing is more fearful than the wrath of the angry Samoan pastor. Dude, these kids were found, thrown on their knees in front of Alli and whipped with a belt while he made them beg her forgiveness.
Anyway, school’s not just all beatings and cleaning, there are teacher’s meetings going on too. The kids serve the teachers tea and crackers in the staff room while we discuss the funds given by the MESC (Ministry of Education, Sports and Culture) this year and what we should do with them. The principal wants to get a few computers, a printer, new locks for the doors, more desks, carpets for the younger classes to sit on and we were talking about writing a grant for a new building to house a better library, a computer room/principal’s office and staff room. Apparently, if you raise 25% of the money needed, the EU (European Union) will pay the rest, if they approve the project. I’m looking into that. I also brought up a project suggested to me by a Group 80 volunteer to plant fruit trees within the school grounds whose fruit would go exclusively to the children and teachers. Great health project seeing as kids either don’t eat anything at school or buy ice cake or Twisties and the staff primarily consume ramen noodles, don’t worry I bring my lunch.
Anyway, next week classes start! I’ll be teaching English to years 5-8.
“O lou igoa o Sina. O lou tina o Peta. O lou tama o Aso. O te nofo ii Fogasavaii” (My name is Sina, My mom is Peta, My dad is Aso, I live in Fogasavaii.). I was glad for these little introductions because I could understand every word, a rare sensation. As far as the corporal punishment goes, it’s just normal here, just like animal abuse (not feeding animals unless they are intended to become food, throwing rocks at or kicking dogs and cats, throwing unwanted kittens and puppies (especially if they are female) into the ocean . Nobody flinches, nobody protests. It’s just the way it is here. I witnessed it in Manunu when one of my younger host brothers got all dirty before church, throwing around cow pies. He got a beating, and it was loud. Alli’s bike was “borrowed” by some kids in the village off her front porch. She lives in a house with the faifeau (pastor) again, she just gets bad luck with housing and nothing is more fearful than the wrath of the angry Samoan pastor. Dude, these kids were found, thrown on their knees in front of Alli and whipped with a belt while he made them beg her forgiveness.
Anyway, school’s not just all beatings and cleaning, there are teacher’s meetings going on too. The kids serve the teachers tea and crackers in the staff room while we discuss the funds given by the MESC (Ministry of Education, Sports and Culture) this year and what we should do with them. The principal wants to get a few computers, a printer, new locks for the doors, more desks, carpets for the younger classes to sit on and we were talking about writing a grant for a new building to house a better library, a computer room/principal’s office and staff room. Apparently, if you raise 25% of the money needed, the EU (European Union) will pay the rest, if they approve the project. I’m looking into that. I also brought up a project suggested to me by a Group 80 volunteer to plant fruit trees within the school grounds whose fruit would go exclusively to the children and teachers. Great health project seeing as kids either don’t eat anything at school or buy ice cake or Twisties and the staff primarily consume ramen noodles, don’t worry I bring my lunch.
Anyway, next week classes start! I’ll be teaching English to years 5-8.
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